http://bugs.winehq.org/show_bug.cgi?id=24928
--- Comment #48 from Rodd Snook rodd.snook@gmail.com 2011-12-30 17:21:02 CST --- It looks like WoW is now checking explicitly for the presence of nvapi before enabling these options. It may be checking something similar for ATI cards too, but I can't test that.
Using nvapi.dll from a Windows installation of the nvidia driver and WINEDLLOVERRIDES=nvapi=native allows these options to be selected. However, bug 26571 still applies, with water disappearing entirely at "good" or "ultra" setting for liquid detail.